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Long Street

Long Street Baths

The 33,3 yard Long Street swimming pool during the 1931 South African swimming and water polo championships.


The Long Street baths in Cape Town are typical of Victorian English architecture. Indoor swimming pools were a hallmark of the era, often built as part of larger bathhouses or health facilities.  Before the Long Street pool was built, there was an indoor pool right on the beach in Camps Bay, and another in Claremont

The Long Street Baths are a mix of Victorian, Edwardian and Art Nouveau architecture, and the lettering on signage reflects a long history of changing needs, times, rules and ideas. The 25-metre pool was built in 1908, and around 20 years later, the Turkish baths were added on. Here, people could come for a steam bath and a massage. This service has fallen away in recent years.

The hand-wringing that almost saw the baths being obliterated in the 70s came to a head when a resolution was made in 1985 to improve the facility. In 1990, the city council spent R2.2 million, adding a glass section on the east wall with an outside area for bathers to sit in the sun.

Over the years, swimmers in the city had to rely on this antiquated facility for winter training, as it was the only heated pool available. Clubs were allocated one lane each and had to share the space with the public. 

For over a hundred years, the swimming pools at the top of Long Street have provided generations of Central City swimmers with a place to play, relax and perfect their stroke. In the early years, after the facility was built in 1908, the pools were also known as the “slipper baths” because at that time many of the blocks of flats in the area did not have bathrooms, so people would walk over to the baths in their slippers to have a shower. In 1926, the Turkish baths were added, allowing people to escape the drizzle of winter or the howling southeaster of summer for an authentic hammam experience that included a cold plunge pool, hot saunas and a massage.

Today, although the Turkish baths no longer enjoy the services of an in-house masseur, they still provide an oasis of peace in the busy centre of the city. Almost equidistant between mountain and sea, the baths are located at a crossroads at the top of the city’s main entertainment thoroughfare, within sight of museums, restaurants, bars, hotels, a church and a mosque. This cosmopolitanism is reflected in the users of the baths, which have always included a diverse cross-section of city residents.

This is still true today: the pool and saunas of the Turkish baths are frequented by locals, tourists, business people, pensioners and schoolchildren alike.

Coaching clinic hosted by Cecil Colwin. Swimmers include Christopher Hugo-Hamman, Derek Young, Heinie van Zyl, Gordon Haddow, Norman Brown and David Roberts.

Photos from Marion Naisby - Long Street Baths, Cape Town shortly before renovations in 1989.

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In 1990, the Long Street pool was renovated.

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Ellis Park

Ellis Park Swimming Pool

The Ellis Park municipal swimming pool played a big role in the history of swimming in southern Africa.

The venue for the 1910 South African national swimming aquatic championships and many national and international events since, Ellis Park is too shallow to be used for national-level competitions.

The main pool was later heated throughout the winter months, giving Transvaal swimmers a big advantage over swimmers from other areas that had no heated pools. The pool was also the home of the Transvaal ASA.

On 16 January 1909, the first public swimming pool built in Johannesburg was officially opened.

Known today as the Ellis Park Swimming Pool, a swimming gala was held to mark the occasion. A  gala held a few weeks later had to be cancelled when it was discovered that somebody had let all the water out. With a capacity of 500,000 gallons of water, it understandably took a considerable time to fill the pool again, which became a landmark in this part of Johannesburg.

In 1978, a similar event occurred when the pool was 'accidentally' drained a few days before nationals began. In the end the event was held - but in very cold water!

 

Doornfontein Ellis Park lake 1900s

Ellis park lake 1912

Ellis Park Lake, early 1900s, looking East toward Bertrams and Judith’s Paarl. The source of the water was known as Natal Spruit. It ran down to a marshy area (which later became Ellis Park Lake) where Ellis Park stadium is today. Then it meandered through Jeppe at the dip, which was known as Natal Camp in the first years of Johannesburg, and made its way south over the main reef. There was apparently a small waterfall roughly where the M2 highway would have crossed the stream.

Today the pools are part of the greater Ellis Park sports complex. 

Transforming a wasteland to a premium sporting arena: The case of Ellis Park, Johannesburg, 1900s-1930s

GRUNDLINGH, Louis.

Historia [online]. 2017, vol.62, n.2, pp.27-45. ISSN 2309-8392.  https://doi.org/10.17159/2309-8392/2017/v62n2a2.


ABSTRACT

One of the aims of Johannesburg's British-controlled town council after the South African War (1899-1902) was to provide open public leisure spaces for its white citizens. The establishment and development of Ellis Park as a major sports centre was one of these endeavours.

In 1908 the council bought disused land in New Doornfontein, taking the first step towards achieving this grand vision, namely the construction of a swimming bath that met all the requirements for an international tournament. The First World War interrupted any further development, but the 1920s witnessed impressive expansion to include tennis courts, cricket pitches and rugby football grounds. By the end of the 1920s, the council and the Transvaal Rugby Football Union that was a key stakeholder in the development, could proudly claim that they had achieved their dream of establishing an international sports arena for Johannesburg. Ellis Park became a significant urban marker, a symbol of prestige for the fast-growing city, as well as in the transformation of Johannesburg's urban fabric into a modern city.

Transforming a wasteland to a premium sporting arena: The case of Ellis Park, Johannesburg, 1900s-1930s

Louis Grundlingh Professor in the department of Historical Studies at the University of Johannesburg

Introduction

After the discovery of gold in 1886, a mining camp was established with no intent of any later development into a town, let alone a city. However, mass migration to the lucrative gold fields soon took off. It became clear that Johannesburg would indeed become a permanent settlement.

This population increase prompted the government of the Zuid-Afrikaansche Republiek (South African Republic) to provide proper town planning. The town surveyor decided on a grid system of small blocks and small stands. The reasoning was to earn as much revenue as possible for the government because rent had to be paid for the stands. This layout limited any provision for urban open spaces. As a result the only significant open spaces that featured in the 1887 plan was the market square.

Until 1902, Johannesburg did not have a town council (hereafter, council). However, at the end of the South African War in 1902, the situation changed. The British government under the leadership of Lord Alfred Milner, took over the administration of Johannesburg from military control and set up an effective municipality, based mainly on the British model. As part of its post-war reconstruction agenda the town council seamlessly integrated British ideas into their vision of Johannesburg's further development. Consequently, it embarked on the provision of proper public services to the fledgling town, such as infrastructure, town planning and the provision of water, electricity and transport. This was in line with the requirements of an early 2Oth-century "garden city", where these services were seen as essential.

Very little academic research has been done thus far on Johannesburg's open spaces and particularly their development into major sport venues. This paper aims to rectify this by investigating the history of Ellis Park. Ellis Park is exceptional in four ways. It never really had the characteristics of a traditional "park". It is one of the first areas in Johannesburg developed on the grounds of an early reservoir which fell into disuse. The initial aim was to develop the grounds into a lake for recreational boating. Lastly, from 1905 to the 1930s the grounds were transformed into one of South Africa's most famous fully-fledged sport arenas.

This article argues that it was especially health consciousness amongst Johannesburg's white residents, as well as the prestige of having an open space for first class sport facilities within the context of the "modern city" movement, that prompted this development. The essay further investigates the considerations leading to the council's decision to make this huge investment, as well as the major role of the Transvaal Rugby Football Union (TRFU) in the later development of Ellis Park. Lastly, the essay describes the physical changes to provide for a wide range of sporting activities such as athletics, tennis, rugby football and swimming. This essay does not purport to follow a "history from below" approach but rather it investigates the roles of the political powerful, i.e. Johannesburg's town council and the sport administrators.

Four factors made it possible to develop Johannesburg into a "modern" city. Because of the huge profits from the gold mines a wealthy urban white elite, the so-called Randlords, or mining magnates, settled and invested in the city. Secondly, there was a strong political will. Thirdly, by the 1900s, population increase amongst whites in the inner-city, noise and pollution led to the outward expansion into the suburbs. Fourthly, as mentioned, the council was ideologically aligned with its counterparts in Britain and subscribed to the British mindset on the necessity of open urban spaces. This meant that the council ear-marked a number of open spaces for development into public parks for play, relaxation and organised sport. The history of urban open spaces and their value, reflects these diverse functions. In Johannesburg, Ellis Park was a case in point.

**Dust from the mine dumps often made outdoor activities unpleasant. Ironically, though, with moderate weather eight months of the year, Johannesburg's climatic conditions favoured outdoor sport activity. Even though some summer days could be warm to hot, often a late afternoon thunderstorm provided welcome relief.9 Supported by excellent weather, Johannesburg's rapid population growth, and the growing awareness of the advantages of a healthy lifestyle, set the scene for outdoor activities such as tennis, boating, cycling and swimming. The initial incentive was indeed the need for a municipal swimming pool which had been considered from time to time by the council from as early as 1904.

The next step was to locate a site for the establishment of Ellis Park. Initially, considerations such as the lack of a cheap water supply, capital funds for a swimming pool as well as high prices for land, kept the start of the project in abeyance. There was, however, land on which two disused open reservoirs and the Doornfontein brickfields were situated - a "sort of no-man's land" of shacks and hovels occupied by Coloured washerwomen and black people. This land, between North Park Lane and Eryn Street to the north/north-west; Bertrams Road to the east and South Park Lane and Reservoir Street to the south in New Doornfontein, belonged to the Rand Water Board and the Johannesburg Waterworks Estate and Exploration Company.

A major asset of the grounds was the borehole, at the time the main source of water for the neighbourhood. The reservoir site comprised 25 acres (10 ha) and had become derelict by the turn of the 19thcentury. In 1908 the council bought the Rand Water Board's lease for £2 500 and paid £500 to the Johannesburg Estates Company for a further 7 acres (2,8 ha) adjoining the reservoir site. With J.D. Ellis as the driving force, and instrumental in conceiving and converting the neglected site into a playing ground, the council embarked on a comprehensive reclamation scheme with a "grand vision" of an all-encompassing sports centre for Johannesburg.

One of the first developments towards developing the park into a sports ground was the adaptation of the old storage dam into an artificial lake to be used for boating. Tenders were invited for the right to hire out small boats. The tender was awarded to S.M. Hershfield for 12 months at £20 a month. Hershfield did not have the sole right of boats on the lake because permission was also granted to private persons to have boats, provided they did not compete with his business. When the contract expired the next year, the only tender was that of J. Goodman at £10 per month which the council approved.

Despite the financial losses, it seems the lake would remain a permanent feature in the development of Ellis Park. In August 1910 the town council approved expenditure for the building of a pathway around the lake because the nature of the embankment around the lake was considered dangerous as children might fall into the water. The expenditure would be £974, which was a substantial amount at the time. Even as late as March 1912, the council confirmed its contract with Messrs Bagguley and Stephens "for the completion of the Lake in Ellis Park and the excavation and removal of soil from the Park". Nevertheless, it seems that nothing came of this plan. The council still maintained its vision to provide for recreation by developing the grounds into rugby football fields, tennis courts, cricket grounds and a swimming pool. At the end of 1908, a report in the Rand Daily Mail noted: "Ellis Park", the thirty acres of town pleasure ground so attractively nestling between the thickly populated sides of the Doornfontein and Fairview Hills, is gradually evolving from the unsightliness of the donga stage."

Swimming bath

The first step towards the "grand vision" was the construction of a swimming bath that would become a central feature. The decision to build the bath was not taken on a whim. By then the council had already received inquiries from numerous sports clubs to lease portions of ground in Ellis Park for tennis and racquet courts, croquet lawns, football grounds, an ice skating rink and an entertainment hall.

A Mr Dowsett, of the municipality's architectural branch and a water "fanatic" was tasked to oversee the building. A bath of 150 feet (45.72 metres) long, 100 feet (30.5 metres) wide and 3 feet 4 in (1 metre) to 7 feet 4 in (2.2 metres) deep was proposed. In July 1908 the council decided to award the tender to Messrs Harper Brothers to build the bath28 - at that time the largest in South Africa. In line with the notion to develop Ellis Park into a first class sport venue, the design provided for international competitions. In addition, accommodation for 3 000 people, dressing rooms, a children's shelter and ticket office were built. The Rand Daily Mail journalist could write: "The glittering tiles have almost obscured for ever the bottom of what was once Johannesburg's first reservoir for the town's drink."

On Saturday 16 January 1909, the first public swimming bath in Johannesburg was inaugurated with a grand gala. The Sunday Times reported:

The best three hours of aquatic sport [that] Johannesburg has yet experienced were enjoyed by over 2 000 people … For the first time the general public had an opportunity of seeing what has been done for them … The trees and seats which run around two sides of the water were crowded with visitors of both sexes, the threat of rain being insufficient to keep them away from the prospect of sport … The bath itself is certainly the most adequate structure of its kind in the subcontinent for races … it seems pretty certain that there will be no lack of public support for fixtures as that of yesterday.

Within three years this prediction proved to be spot-on. The popularity of the bath was evident: "There are glad tidings for a long-suffering public. The swimming baths in Ellis Park are to be opened again for the summer season on Saturday, and preparations are being made for dealing with a rush." Cheap tickets, open hours from 6 am to 9 pm during summer months and easy access using the tram system, boosted the popularity of the pool.

For the Transvaal Amateur Swimming Association (TASA) the bath met all its requirements for a swimming tournament. Hence it applied to hold the Currie Cup33 (swimming tournament) on February 1910. The town council duly approved the application, provided the TASA paid the council 7½ percent of the total receipts from the sale of tickets.

It was soon apparent that the facilities provided in 1909 were inadequate. Minor additional facilities were added during the 1910s. In 1912 a stand to accommodate 800 spectators was erected at the north side of the park. It was seen as an important addition and welcomed "as a boon to the public … who throng to the baths as sightseers on Saturdays and Sundays …". It also served as a shelter for the swimming bath against dust during the dust storm season. Ellis Park was gradually getting the trimmings of a proper sporting venue. The 1920s and 1930s, however, saw more substantial additional developments at the bath, inter alia a three-storeyed building with 98 new dressing booths as well as a tea servery on the lawns.

swimming bath indeed fulfilled the prophecy in the mayor's minute of 1909 that it would prove to be "a distinct boon to the city". Galen Cranz's remark that "swimming pools [in the USA] were more popular than any other single facility", was certainly true in the case of Ellis Park.


OPSOMMING

Na die Suid-Afrikaanse Oorlog (1899-1902) was een van die doelstellings van Johannesburg se Brits-beheerde Stadsraad om voorsiening te maak vir openbare ontspanningsruimtes vir die blanke stadsburgers. Die vestiging en ontwikkeling van Ellis Park as 'n omvangryke sport sentrum was een van hierdie pogings. In 1908 het die stadsraad onbewoonde grond in New Doornfontein gekoop. Daarna is die eerste stap in die bereiking van hul grootse visie geneem, naamlik die bou van 'n swembad wat aan die vereistes vir enige internasionale kompetisie voldoen het. Die Eerste Wêreldoorlog het enige verdere ontwikkeling onderbreek. Die werkike grootskaalse uitbreiding sou in die 1920s plaasvind en het tennisbane, krieket- en rugbyvelde ingesluit. Teen die eindie van die 1920s kon die stadsraad en die Transvaalse Rugby Voetbal Unie, 'n belangrike aandeelhouer in die ontwikkeling, trots daarop aanspraak maak dat hulle die droom van die vestiging van 'n internasionale sportsentrum vir Johannesburg verwesentlik het. Ellis Park het 'n betekenisvolle stedelike aanwyser geword. Dit het 'n prestige simbool van 'n vinnig groeiende stad geword, 'n simbool van die transformasie van Johannesburg se stedelike omgewing na 'n moderne stad.

SA swimming sinks

13 October 2013

Ellis Park, one of the best facilities in Johannesburg, is being poorly maintained

The swimming community in Johannesburg is homeless because one of the best facilities in the city, Ellis Park, is being crippled by poor maintenance.

Even South Africa’s golden boy of swimming, Chad le Clos, had to change his high-altitude training programme at Ellis Park, because the water temperature is not being maintained at a consistent level.

The boilers that keep the pool heated have not been serviced for five years. And it is not just Le Clos whose plans have been affected – other top development, masters and disabled swimmers are also battling, as are lifeguards, who also train at the pool.

City Press spoke to Swimming SA’s performance manager, Dean Price, whose squad trains at Ellis Park. He has not been able to use the facility for some time and, with the trials for the Commonwealth Games looming, the swimmers need a 50m pool to train in.

Staff members at the pool do their best to keep the temperature consistent, but at times the boilers fail and the pool temperature, which should be maintained at 26°C, drops to 20°C or even lower.

Price said: “It’s the best facility in Johannesburg and the only international one here, for that matter. But there has been no maintenance for a while now, so it’s as if the swimming community is homeless.

“It’s having a crippling effect on the development of swimming. It is sad that athletes are required to perform, but there are no facilities available to them. What is sad is young swimmers dedicate their lives to the sport, but they do not get the support to achieve their goals.

“I find it strange that preference has been given to the Linden pool, which I hear is going to be fixed for the second year running, while no work is being done at Ellis Park.”

Olympic gold medallist Ryk Neethling said it is upsetting that the facility he once used is no longer available for swimmers.

“It was one of the reasons I had to move to Pretoria, even though Ellis Park is one of the best facilities I trained at. It is great for development, as it’s close to the city centre and is a high-performance centre for the top guys. I was involved with the council to improve the facility, as this is really where development is,” said Neethling.

Another former Olympic swimmer, Mandy Loots, who still trains at Ellis Park, shared Neethling’s sentiments.

“It was the pool where I formed my Olympic dreams. Back then, it was always in perfect condition. To see how they struggle to get the temperature right for upcoming Olympic swimmers is just so sad,” said Loots.

Swimmers in Johannesburg battled throughout the winter season, as all the other heated pools – Coronationville, Linden and Pioneer Park – were closed for renovations.

Nico Laubscher, Johannesburg City Council deputy director of maintenance, admitted that only 50% of the pools in Johannesburg had opened at the start of September.

“We wish we could deal with all the problems at once, but we work to a budget. We know the problems at Ellis Park and we have the budget this year for the heating system to be serviced.

“The lanes will also be replaced and work will be done on the timing devices,” he said.

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Beach Baths

Rachael Finlayson Beach Baths - Durban

An enormous 300-foot by 75-foot open-air swimming pool (later named after Rachel Finlayson) was opened in 1912.


In 1907, the South African Swimming Championships and Currie Cup water polo tournament were hosted by the Natal ASA for the first time, using the West Street Town Baths in Durban.

There were sell-out crowds of 350 people over the eight-day event, despite complaints about the shallow depth being unsuitable for water polo, and the length that had to be specially modified to make the pool 25 yards long. Although the original building has been demolished, the (empty) swimming pool still exists.


After the national Championships were again held in Durban in 1911, the Durban Corporation, as the municipality in Durban was then known, built the 100-yard-long Beach Bath on the beachfront in 1912, which was filled with saltwater. A temporary barrier was used to make a 55-yard competition pool. 

Nationals were held at the Beach Bath on ten different occasions after that, culminating in the 1976 event where 20 national records were set. The salt water makes swimmers more buoyant than in fresh water, which helped produce the record haul of national records.

When the new indoor Olympic-size pool was built at King's Park in 2009, the Beach Baths fell into disrepair. It was upgraded in 2022 and used for the national Masters Swimming Championships in 2025.

Once iconic Durban beachfront pool now an eyesore

03 May 2017 
unnamed
A proposed upgrade to the Rachel Finlayson pool has stalled, leaving the once-popular facility a messy eyesore.
Image: ROGAN WARD
 

A two-year upgrade to restore one of Durban’s iconic beachfront swimming pools to its former glory has ground to a halt and now it is just an eyesore.

The Rachel Finlayson pool - once a major beachfront attraction – now stands empty‚ surrounded by overgrown grass and shrubs. Stagnating water from recent rains is pooled at the bottom.

An upgrade worth more than R4-million began in 2015 and was‚ according to reports‚ supposed to be completed within a year.

Municipal spokesman Tozi Mthethwa said: “The work on the Rachel Finlayson swimming pool was halted in order to allow the City the appropriate time to procure a finishing contract within this financial year.”

Democratic Alliance councillor Peter Graham‚ who sits on the city’s security and emergency services sub-committee‚ described the state of public pool as “shocking”.

“When you have a budget allocated‚ it’s for the entire project. I want to know where are the pubic funds that have been spent on this...? It’s so far from finished. It hasn’t changed in about three years. There are two security guards sitting there. This is another example of complete wastage of ratepayer’s money‚” he said.

“It looks as if any attempt to restore this icon of the Durban beachfront where so many of us did 1000’s of lengths in the 70’s and 80’s has been abandoned. When grass and shrubbery can be seen growing through the building material it is plain for the world to see the city has lost interest.”

Graham said the city’s treatment of the public asset was “completely unacceptable”.

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Newlands

Newlands Pool, Cape Town

The 55-yard pool was the scene for the dramatic 1969 South African Swimming Championships, where Karen Muir set a world record in the 440-yard Individual Medley.

In the mid-1900s, the world became increasingly obsessed with the space race between the United States and Russia. Architecture began to reflect this obsession, and design became sleek and futuristic. Mid-century modernism, as the style is now called, often depicts motion with upswept roofs and the use of geometric and curvaceous shapes.

The Newlands Swimming Pool is an excellent example of the optimism of this period of history. Architects working for the City of Cape Town designed the pool and it was completed in the early 1960s. The grandstand has a skeletal feel, with several identical concrete ribs holding up a floating canopy. The canopy is swallow-shaped in profile and saw-toothed from the front. And with Table Mountain and Devil's Peak as a backdrop, the result is breathtaking.

A ticket booth, locker rooms and press box form part of the grandstand, which looms over two pools: one Olympic-sized and the other used for diving and water polo. A pump house situated on the far side of the diving pool has a wave-shaped roof and is decorated with metal silhouettes of a woman diving and a man playing water polo.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/mallix/3129953219/in/photostream/

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